Moving on... The tools you will need:
-Torx 20 (T20)
-Torx 10 (T10)
-Flat Head screwdriver
-Phillips with magnetic head (optional)
Start with a regular old xbox
Flip it over and locate 6 screws
Screws 2 and 5 are under security stickers. Breaking these stickers voids your non-existent warranty. Screws 1, 3, 4 and 6 are under the feet. GENTLY peel up the edge of the feet, only enough to expose the screw.
Set your screws aside
Using both hands, one on each side of the vents, GENTLY lift up. If it gives you problems, yell at it. If yelling at it doesn't work, gently wiggle and it should come free. Lift off and set aside.
Remove the IDE cable from the hard drive. Remove molex power from the hard drive. Navigate the power cables through the maze of clips and hang over right edge of the shield. Remove 1 T10 screw that attaches the hard drive caddy to the DVD caddy. Lift out the hard drive and set aside. Be sure not to rattle, shake, bump or drop your hard drive... seriously.
Locate and remove the IDE cable and the yellow cable from the back of your DVD drive. Hang cables over the rear of the metal shield. Locate and remove 2 T10 screws from the front left and front right of the DVD drive. Sometimes the left screw is hard to get out. This is where you might need the screwdriver with the magnetic head. Once the cables and screws are removed, simply lift the caddy out and set aside.
Remove the IDE cable and the yellow cable from the motherboard and set aside.
On the right side of the mother board you will find the PSU (Power Supply Unit). There are 2 screws and a series of slider clips holding it in place. After you remove both screws, please detach the molex from the motherboard. When the PSU is completely free, simply slide it towards the front of the case, lift up, remove and set aside. Please be sure that your PSU is unplugged from the wall and has been discharged completely before handling. See those big ass capacitors? Yeah... they hurt... Don't touch them, period.
Next up, remove your controller ports. They are held in place by 2 T10 screws each, one on either side of the assembly. The controller ports are connected to either a "daughter board" (version 1.0 only) or directly to the motherboard (versions 1.1 and above). Simply unplug, lift out and set aside.
Next we're going to want to remove the faceplate. First unplug the P/E board (Power / Eject) from the motherboard (yellow wires).
Using your flathead screwdriver, gently pry outward until you hear a pop. Do not pry too hard, you dont want to break anything. The faceplate will not come completely free until you release at least 2 of the 3 inner case clips. I would suggest the first clip you release be the one closest to the point where you used your flathead. The second clip being the center clip. Once unclipped, swing free using caution when threading the P/E cable through the hold in the chassis. Set the machine aside while we continue working on the faceplate.
Now, lets dismantle the faceplate. Using your flathead screwdriver, GENTLY... gently push down on the tab located in the bottom center of the P/E board. Once unclipped, the P/E board should swing completely free. Once free, you are able to remove the button assembly and the LED diffuser. Set aside.
The next step is optional. I would not recommend that you do this if you have clumsy hands. I cant even begin to tell you how many of these that I have broke, even being as gentle as I possibly can.
To remove the button shield from the faceplate, first locate 2 clips. Be extremely careful to not break them off. GENTLY lift them, one at a time, using your finger nail. Once the top 2 clips are free, there is one on the bottom. This one is not as brittle. Separate and set aside.
Moving back to the console, we're going to remove the fan. Unplug the fan from the motherboard.
The fan is held in place by two 2 stage clips (I don't know what else to call them). Using your flathead screwdriver, gently pry outward while lifting up in the center. You will hear / feel it click. Maintaining upward pressure, repeat this step on the opposite side.
Stage 2... Now that the fan is somewhat free, repeat the steps with your flathead. This time the fan will come completely free. Set aside.
You should now be looking at a nekkid chassis with nothing more than the motherboard and bottom shield. Locate and remove 11 screws, highlighted in red.
Once all of the screws are removed, gently lift up on the front of the motherboard, pivoting from the back. Once you reach a 45° angle, gently lift out.
Removing the shield seems simple enough, right? One more step... There is a pad on the right side of the shielding that protects the contacts in the bottom of the PSU from shorting out. The pad is glued, or attached to the shielding, so it cant come out completely. You want to lift out and the the left to bring it free from the clips. Once that is done, lift the metal shielding out. If it's giving you problems, yell at it. If that doesn't work, wiggle it a little bit until it comes free.
Now, you should have a completely dismantled xbox. Stand back and vast in its glory. Please make sure that your pets (dogs, cats, hamsters, rabbits or babies) dont walk, lay or urinate on your parts. Nothing pisses me off more than when a baby comes along and pisses on my xbox. Damn babies. ANYWAYS... Enjoy!
NOTE 1:
I realize that I did not cover removing the DVD drive from it's caddy or removing the HDD from it's caddy. I did not notice this mistake until the xbox was already put back together.
To remove the hard drive, locate and remove 4 T15 screws (T10 driver will work just fine). Lift drive out of caddy.
To remove the DVD drive, locate 2 clips on either side of the drive towards the rear. Unclip them one at a time. The front of the drive is attached by a simple "tube"... Just lift the drive from the caddy.
NOTE 2:
I have absolutely nothing against babies in general. Just babies that pee on things.
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